Miyako means "Old Tokyo." It is the ancient name of the Japanese capital. In Frederick, Miyako is the newest Japanese steak and seafood restaurant, located in the old Shoney's at the Westridge Shopping Center on the Golden Mile.

The décor is a mix of Japanese and urban American. A large waiting area, complete with magazines, lets you know that you may have a bit of a wait, especially on weekends. Inside the restaurant are faux windows with rice paper and a mural of and Asian landscape. The restaurant has a spacious feel.

Patrons can sit at one of a dozen-hibachi tables with seating for up to 12 people at each. Diners sit on wooden benches, rather that on large, comfortable pillows, as is customary in more traditional Japanese restaurants. For those who want more private dining, there is a separate dining area with small tables. There is a bare with seating, and a sushi bar.

My guest and I wanted to observe the display of Japanese cuinary ostentatiousness, however. At a hibachi restaurant, diners observer the chefs cooking their meals. The cooking is done with dexterous flourishes.

The chefs are not only trained in cooking, they seem to have a knack for juggling, as well. Our chef juggled his knife and spatula, which flashed silver as they flew above our heads. On a try behind him were ingredients for out dinners, and he went around the table confirming our orders.

In the meantime, a waitress took our drink orders and brought us bowls of clear broth soup with flecks of spring onion. These were followed by bowls of salad, iceberg lettuce with a sweet sesame dressing. The lettuce was bland but the dressing was delicious.

The chef oiled the grill and set it afire. Four-foot high flames leapt before us. Then, as quickly as they were lit, the flames died. With the grill properly prepared, the chef pulled out and egg and cracked it. Not missing a beat, he scooped out a couple of tiny bits of shell and flicked them into a small trash receptacle on the tray.

He then began frying the rice, chatting easily with us as he worked. It was almost as if he could go through the motions with his eyes closed. He flipped a lemon high over our heads and caught it easily, all the while never taking his eyes off the grill.

After the rice was fried, he pulled out quantities of sliced vegetables. He sautéed onion, peppers, mushrooms and broccoli until they were crisp tender.

Before he began sautéing the meat, the waitress brought our appetizers. Some at out table ordered tempura, which came in a light batter. My guest and I ordered the sashimi, a sampler of fresh raw fish, and were very pleased. The slices of fish came on a serving board with garnishes of wasabi and ginger slices.

There were slices of tuna, salmon and yellowtail tuna, along with pieces of langostino. The tuna and yellowtail were very fresh and flavorful. These morsels lacked any trace of strong fishy flavor or odor, and were melt-in-your-mouth tender. The salmon was also excellent.

Patrons then got a shrimp appetizer. Bowls of savory mustard sauce and ginger sauce were distributed.

The seafood entrees were cooked first. My shrimp was sautéed in the same manner as the shrimp appetizer, in a teriyaki sauce that left the morsels moist. They were cooked perfectly, not at all overdone.

My guest ordered a combination of filet mignon and chicken. The chef asked those who ordered steak how they wanted it prepared, and met their demands. He then sliced the meat while we watched. My guest noted that the bite-sized pieces of were just the right size for chopstick users.

His meat was very tender, and he observed that none of the flavors overpowered one another. The veggies provided a crispy accompaniment and were also cut the right size for chopsticks. With sticky rice, I was actually able to eat most of my meal with chopsticks.

After the chef completed cooking, he cleaned the grill and departed, leaving us to finish our meals. Miyako is only open for dinner, and its feature is, as the name of the restaurant says, steak and seafood. Entrees range from $12.95 to $18.95, except for the lobster, which is market price. Choices include chicken, steak, filet mignon, shrimp, scallops, salmon and lobster.

Combination entrees, $16.95 to $27.95, include steak or filet mignon and chicken, shrimp or scallops, filet and scallops, filet, shrimp and scallops, filet and lobster and seafood combination. The Miyako dinner, $27.95, is filet, lobster tail and scallops. For those who want to go meatless, there is the vegetable delight, $11.95. This includes all the vegetables listed above sautéed in sauce and herbs.

There is a full sushi menu with the hand-rolled fish, California rolls and maki sushi. Diners can also order from a combination menu.

Appetizers, $4.95-$6.95, include shrimp, scallop or vegetable tempura, gyoza (six pieces), which is vegetable dumplings, sushi and sashimi.

Desserts are green tea, chocolate or vanilla ice cream and cheesecake. My guest and I were too full from the ample portions of food to have room for dessert.

-- Karen Gardner
The Frederick Post