Japanese food and hospitality go hand in hand, sort of like fine wine and good cheese (or chicken wings and beer). One is definitely enhanced by the other and in the case of Miyako, noting could be truer.
During my many trips driving past Miyako, I watched this place under renovation. All outward appearances signaled that this place was a part of a chain - a Benihana knock-off. The exterior design couldn't be more professional and I thought that it looked very much like a restaurant that had been planned for a long time. Finding out that this is an independent, one -of-a-kind restaurant was a surprise.
When Miyako finally opened, I asked for the assignment because I really wanted to see the inside. I wondered if the interior could live up to the same standards as the external signage and architecture, so my dining partner and I made a reservation for 6 p.m. on a Sunday night. I waited all day to get there and when I finally did, I was not let down. The place is absolutely gorgeous, with dark mahogany-stained walls and numerous shiny tables, made especially for a showy cooking performance. The host was polite and was fast to tell us that our table would be ready shortly because they like to seat an entire table at once. I am always uncomfortable when I'm asked to eat with people that I don't know, but in the spirit of the occasion, I eagerly sat down and struck up a conversation with my neighbors. They, too, were amazed at the atmosphere that the owners achieved.
Immediately after being seated, a very accommodating server asked us for our drink orders and if we were interested in appetizers. While we did not choose appetizers, some of our table-mates did and it was served very promptly at the same time as our drinks. There is a fully stocked sushi bar, perfect for creating beautiful plates of sushi and temaki. The prices of these were very comparable with other sushi restaurants in Frederick and the station where the chef was working was impeccable.
As we perused the menu, there were several items that looked scrumptious, so narrowing it down to just one was difficult. Each of the entrees is served with special Miyako soup, salad with peanut dressing, a shrimp appetizer, vegetables, steamed rice and hibachi ginger and mustard sauces. For an additional cost, the white rice can be replaced with fried rice. All of our meals were prepared right at our table, with the chef slicing and dicing and spinning food all the while having fun with the customers.
I considered the sesame chicken, which is chicken prepared with lemon and sesame seeds with teriyaki sauce ($12.95). Also competing for my selection were the hibachi salmon steak, which is sautéed in garlic butter with teriyaki sauce ($15.95). Had I been super hungry, there were several entrees that were combinations of two or more different items. Surf and turf "Miyako style" can be found on the menu and one example of a land and sea item would be the filet mignon and lobster for $24.95. Should you be interested in only seafood, then you might choose the seafood combination dinner which is a lobster tail, scallops and shrimp with herbs and Miyako sauce ($25.95). Vegetarians can also dine at Miyako with no problems because there is a vegetable delight for $11.95.
My choice du jour was hibachi shrimp ($16.95) and it was delicious. There were lots of large and juicy shrimp cooked to perfection on the grill not more than 2 feet from my chair. Each one was carefully grilled, splattered with some kind of sauce and then doused with half of a lemon's juice. After the lemon was put on my shrimp, the talented cook flung it with his cooking utensil and it landed directly into his white hat. The cheers over that Michael Jordan move wasn't going to stop this cook from performing while he cooked for every one else, and that was not the only lemon to fly.
My dining companion chose the steak and chicken combo ($16.95). This was a New York strip steak and chicken breast prepared with sesame seeds, herbs and that wonderful Miyako sauce. He ordered fried rice ($1.50) in lieu of the white rice. His entrée was most satisfying and the steak was cooked "medium," just as he asked.
The best part of this meal (besides the cooking performance) was the salad dressing. It was like none other that I've ever had before and it was absolutely delicious. It was very peanuty and had a touch of ginger. I could have made a meal on that alone. Also, the soup was wonderful, spiced just right and served not too hot.
Hands down, this was a very good experience and I'd highly recommend Miyako to anyone who enjoys good food, food service and hospitality beyond expectations. Reservations are encouraged and I would suggest making them because Miyako is drawing oodles of customers. After all, lines are always long when the food is good.
By Alexandra Chilton
Gazette Accent